I wasn’t going to comment on the swift downward spiral of the empire of the self-proclaimed Queen of Southern Cooking because it felt too much like piling on needlessly. But then the heap turned into a sink hole and I felt that a few more words might be needed to see this in the context where I believe it, as a cautionary tale and cultural moment in time, ought to live. Certainly in business terms.
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Every year, mostly way back in the 1980’s and early 90’s, was marked by a few highly popular and occasionally deeply embarrassing new food trends or fads. Blackened Redfish depleted an entire species. Sundried Tomatoes threatened to show up in coffee. Salsa danced onto every dish.
This past year I’ve noticed three popular foods – that sound great together in a sentence – have been showing up everywhere, from high-end culinary palaces to grab-and-go hot spots, and it’s a good thing, too. This may well be the year of Kimchee, Quinoa and Kale (which sounds a little bit like a vegan law firm).
Kimchee is the Korean fermented cabbage that had become all the rage well, everywhere. We as a nation have been falling in love with fermented food and drink for ages. We love beer and wine, cheese and charcuterie, all for their taste and less obvious health benefits and now, as those ancient methods come to the fore with a whole new generation or two of food lovers, we have begun to embrace the very notion that bacteria, microbes of the right sort, are in fact our friends. The beloved food science and nature writer Michael Pollen tells us even more about all of this in a New York Times Magazine article two weekends ago. The cult favorite Sandor Katz, author of the award winning The Art of Fermentation, draws large crowds wherever he goes.
Kimchee tastes good, and it makes other foods taste even better than they might on their own. Now, it seems, it’s good for you too, and totally hip. Perfect.
Then there’s the ancient grain-like treasure that sounds like a native language salutation: quinoa! Actually more related to beets and spinach than true cereals or grasses, the branches are decorative and the little seeds -- especially when lightly toasted -- nutty and delicious. And they’re a superfood. Eat from the latest rainforest list and you’re bound to get your own TV show, or at least better skin, or clearer arteries. Something good will happen. Turns out this is just one of many of the earth’s treasures, long praised and understood by whole civilizations and just now becoming nearly mainstream popular in the USA. Good for us.
And then there’s the dark, leafy green that seems to have emerged, whole and unscathed, crunchy and nutrient rich into every salad and onto every plate of modern, heirloom foods. Hail Kale, one and all.
Dark green, full of antioxidants and other critical nutrients, this chewy, deep green is the anti-iceberg, the muscular leaf of heirloom goodness that has seemed to inspire an extraordinary range of cooks, chefs and farmers across the country. And I am so glad. I love a green that, as the late, great bestselling cookbook author Marion Cunningham used to say about her favorite breads, “provides a pleasant chew…” and so much good nutrition.
So here’s to ya, Kimchee, Quinoa and Kale. Sometimes it’s okay to fan the fad and feed the folks. And don’t worry cupcake lovers … pie is just not gonna happen.
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