Over the Beardfest Awards weekend I got to have a meal with a dear friend at a cozy hot spot and had some stellar food I’d been missing since chef Eric Korsh de-camped from his sweet garden roadside resto just outside Sebastopol – the late and greatly lamented Eloise.
Eric is the new (well, a quick year it seems) chef at The Waverly Inn, owned (and strategically seated each evening by remote control) in part by Vanity Fair master editor Graydon Carter.
What a good choice for everyone.
The Waverly has been around forever but got brilliantly refreshed, with a kitchen launched by John Delucie (he of black truffle topped mac and cheese fame) who has gone on to his own equity at The Lion nearby.
That’s why Korsh, who is a bit deeper, nuanced and more classical in his style, is so perfect.
Faith Stewart-Gordon, long time owner of the legendary Russian Tea Room, used to say “you have to make the restaurant the way folks remember it – not simply as it was …” Which means better and deeper every time. She added braids on waiters’ jackets, mirrors and molding, to name some of my favorite flourishes.
Eric adds butter.
Well, clearly, that’s not all. He’s a wonderful cook with a broad range and delicate hand. His rabbit with tagliatelle is tender, rich and sweet. The burnt caramel panna cotta is shockingly delicious.
He’s got his head down, working hard. He’s glad to be back in his home town, feeding Manhattan swells with the scratch to support this totally down-to-earth but completely-worldly effort. We miss him in California, but delight in having spoiled him in the Sonoma sunshine for a while, filling his mouth and memory with true, clean tastes to which he can add a little New England butter in New York…
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