I’ve had it with Tony Bourdain. As his new book oozes onto the scene, it’s time for someone to speak up and say something definitive. Provocation doesn’t mean interesting or valuable. The man is an entertainer – not someone to whom we (or anyone) – should listen about food, restaurants or chefs.
It’s like listening to Rodney Dangerfield about family. Funny, yes. Useful knowledge? Not so much.
I mean it should be an indication of something that he got a two page smooch in The New York Post. Nobody has ever accused them of committing journalism.
Sure, he revealed the scary side of restaurant kitchens in his first book (name withheld to avoid undo promotion), which is the same book in which he admitted to cheating on his cooking test (bullion hidden in jacket) in culinary school. Not exactly mentor level behavior.
Frankly, I consider him the Rush Limbaugh of food. He makes cash spewing vitriol and lunacy designed to appeal to the struggling classes – workers and diners alike – he actually exploits. Maybe Elton will sing at his next wedding.
He suggests David Chang is an important chef – not necessarily the best cook, but important. I suggest that Chang came along at a time where everything was over blown, expensive and fairly ridiculous. He made tasty food of some interest in a budget build-out spot (in a groovy neighborhood) at a time when there was little new in Manhattan to cover, and so he got lots of ink and some anti-establishment hipster cried. That’s timing and culture. Interesting and helpful but he himself is rude, limited in scope and not particularly true to a vision even he doesn’t quite grasp.
Back to Mr. Travel Channel. Look, I get the rocker thing. It’s usually deeply, if attractively, disingenuous. Very kick-ass, of-the-people, while lobbying for a knighthood. (think Mick Jagger) Very f*#k the establishment in an effort to be the new arbiter of taste. Very Courtney Love, with lots of plastic surgery.
Is this really who we want to look to for info, guidance or any sense of reality about food? I mean, this is a guy who appeared at the Wells Fargo Center off the 101 near Santa Rosa some time between Kathy Griffith and the Doobie Brothers.
Professionally, I like to work with chefs in what I call their “post-jerk phase.” We’re still waiting, Tony. In the meantime, thanks for the song and dance.
Agree/disagree with Clark’s opinions? Let’s hear it in the comments. (Sidenote: For the record, here at The Chronicle, we found Mr. Bourdain to be quite enjoyable and insightful when he stopped by for a chat. That said, Voices don’t get censored around here.)
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