Clark Wolf's Rants, Raves, Diatribes...and a few other Thoughts

Field Trip: An Afternoon at the StarChefs International Chefs Congress

 

 

StarChefs.com is currently holding its fourth annual International Chefs Congress in New York City, a three-day culinary symposium that’s open only to industry professionals. We stopped by on Sunday—the first day of the program—to take in some demonstrations, listen to panel discussions, and eat.

When we arrived around noon, attendees were taking their seats around the main stage to watch a keynote panel called “What is American Cuisine?” (A topic we know a thing or two about—click here for our white paper, “The State of American Cuisine.”) Hosted by our friend, Clark Wolf, the panel included JBF Award winners Emeril Lagasse, Charlie Trotter, and Norman Van Aken. Wolf opened the discussion by citing the Fireside Cookbook, in which James Beard declared that America has the greatest opportunity to patch together a unique, national cuisine from the best that other cultures have to offer. “Beard’s words are just as fresh and relevant now as they were when the Fireside Cookbook first came out in 1949,” Wolf stated.

The first topic centered around what sets American chefs apart from those in Europe. Van Aken explained that American chefs are known for their camaraderie. “When we were starting out, we felt like we were the underdog compared to Europe, so we came together and worked as a team, as opposed to individuals working alone to reach superstardom.”

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Labor Showdown May Loom in Tavern’s Next Chapter

 

A surprising menu item could dominate the future carte du jour at the landmark Central Park restaurant Tavern on the Green: a nasty labor dispute.

If it proceeds beyond negotiation posturing, it could be the first major restaurant labor showdown in years, pitting the new operator of a legendary restaurant against one of the city’s most aggressive unions.

Dean J. Poll, who was awarded the license to Tavern by the Parks Department last month, has made a proposal to the union representing some 400 Tavern employees that would nullify most of the provisions of the current contract.

The proposal by Mr. Poll — who runs the nonunionized Boathouse restaurant in Central Park — calls for significant reductions in many employees’ wages, overtime pay, seniority and vacation time, and changes in pension, benefit and scheduling provisions.

Peter Ward, the president of the restaurant’s union, the New York Hotel Trades Council, responded bluntly. “This proposal is an insult, an atrocity and a slap in the face of not only this union but every New Yorker,” he said in an interview. “We will strike this guy for a hundred years over this, and we will never, ever give in.”

A lawyer for Mr. Poll, Barry B. LePatner, said in response to e-mail messages that Mr. Poll “is sensitive to workers’ rights but also believes that management needs to be able to run the restaurant,” adding that “outdated rules can’t work in the new economy, and ultimately ensuring that the restaurant is financially viable will ensure that the workers have their jobs for many years to come.”

He added that Mr. Poll is “hopeful that a satisfactory agreement with the union will be reached that will ensure an excellent workplace environment.” He did not respond specifically to the strike threat.

Though representatives of more than 150 companies expressed interest in Tavern’s new license when it was offered to restaurateurs earlier this year, some walked away because of Tavern’s high costs, including its contract with the waiters, cooks and other workers.

Clark Wolf, a restaurant consultant based in New York who is not involved in the negotiations, said that “no one wants to be anti-labor, but Dean Poll is wise to go full tilt.” He added: “It is a good bargaining position for him to be taking in this recession.”

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