There’s no doubt that the oft-beloved Mario Batali made a Rick Perry-like blunder when he put an evil couple of faces on some very bad behavior by some very big and sometimes faceless companies. Banks are not Hitler and Stalin.
But this whole kerfuffle brings up some truly difficult issues for anyone who wants to own one or more high-end restaurants.
I’m all for capitalist success. I help people build businesses, for goodness sake, and I’m happy for people to be successful. That’s why it’s frustrating when we have an economic mess like the one we’re in and systemically flawed publicly traded and tax-payer supported institutions aren’t more carefully regulated and punished — and rewarded — for specific behavior.
When a restaurant caters to folks with pots of money — or anyone at all — you simply have to have the good manners to leave your opinions at the door. Lead by example. Use organic and sustainable foods if you can. Impose your values on some Masters of the Universe palatably. Maybe change a few minds and hearts at the table, or with a fork. Use the seductive powers at your disposal for the better. There are plenty of good people with money. And plenty of people with money who may well do good.
It’s a little easier out here in the West where pots of cash have been made by high techie wunderkind billionaires who roll up on their Vespas to have major meals and let us all dip into some world class wines. They’re rolling in it because they’re creating new possibilities, whole new industries, and along the way have helped get a lot of us out of suits and ties at so-called fancy restaurants. They’re likeable for a lot of reasons. It’s tougher in New York when some of the people in the dining room might be Bernie Madoffs in training, or just hyped up barbarians selling questionable “financial opportunities” and celebrating the demise of competitors.
We in the food — and yes, hospitality — world simply have to speak another language. When making strong statements, it’s important to be specific and careful. I know how easy it is to toss off a catchy, bitchy, mean snap but now that chefs have reached daytime TV notoriety, the game has simply changed.
Tell people what you’re FOR and how it might be good for them and everyone. Hitler is not a helpful food group.
I forgive Mario — and those angry Wall Streeters would do well to do so, too. He was just expressing the frustration of many about the excesses of the few. Let’s give him the benefit of the doubt and an emotional and philosophical bail-out.
C’mon guys. You want great food don’t you? Otherwise, why have all that money?! Don’t punish yourselves by punishing him. Bankers should not advocate boycotts of any kind. That’s a very last resort kind of thing that should rarely, if ever, be trotted out. Like comparing someone to Hitler.
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