Clark Wolf's Rants, Raves, Diatribes...and a few other Thoughts

Charlie Trotter Trounced in a Cautionary Tale

 

Not so long ago, when Chicago chef Charlie Trotter was defending the rights of geese and ducks to hold onto their engorged livers, a short term ban of foie gras ensued but I kept thinking, “I’ll listen to what he says about bird care when I hear he’s nicer to his line cooks.”

 

Really, the man’s a talented chef who has done a lot for his community but a recent profile by David Kamp (author of The United States of Arugula) was both fair and fairly devastating.

Chef Trotter is beloved by many of his colleagues and respected by many who have been through the ranks of his kitchens but he seems not to have outgrown that very last century notion of chef as humorless dictator and very loud screamer.

Or just rigid control freak.  Even those offered up to defend and promote his mellowed modern self seemed under pressure to please Chef. Add to that a pair of failed expansion attempts in New York and two more in Vegas and you begin to wonder – does he play well with others?

These days, and forever after, being a chef/restaurateur means many things, among them, master collaborator.

At the StarChefs Chef’s Congress a couple of years ago I got to lead a conversation about what American Cuisine might actually be.  My three panelists were Emeril Lagasse (with 11 restaurants, lots of books, those TV shows and, yes, that unfortunate but lucrative Crest commercial), Norman Van Aiken (with a couple of restaurants, some books and years of varied success) and Trotter.  Each was asked by a young aspiring chef where they got their inspiration and fresh knowledge.  Norman gave a studied and thoughtful answer about books and travel and tasting. Emeril gave an engaging, populist and modern nod to farmers, cheese makers, bread bakers and their artisan like.

And Trotter, true to form, talked about how he goes within (himself, that is) and searches until he finds the right answer.

His method is important from time to time, especially at the start of a career, as a person works to define and refine his offering, and occasionally important to refresh and reexamine.  But I couldn’t help thinking how much he might be missing by putting himself first, and always.

Is he stuck or just holding true?  Is his time passed or has he just not grown up, opened up and truly blossomed? Is he nicer to his cooks?  Gee, I hope so.

Full article here

Something's Stinky in here

I was in Brooklyn today, on Smith Street, helping a young couple plan their new bakery/cafe and we scoped out the neighbors. Wandered into what looked to be a locavore food spot that didn't seem to have a window sign.

I got ten feet in when I said "Hey, this really reminds me of that tiny cheese filled spot near here called Stinky!"

A very nice person behind a very full counter told me I was in fact in the center of the new, larger but still true Stinky shop.

Good job guys. I felt it before I smelled it before I shopped it. That's knowing who you are and what to do and how to do it your way, memorably. I'll be back - and so will the neighborhood.

Visit Stinky here

Food tastings, produce boxes and cheese making ahead

The Sonoma County Lodging Association will present Wine Country Chefs of Tomorrow, a benefit for seven local high school programs, at 7:30 p.m. Thursday [4/7/11 ]at the Vintners Inn Event Center in Santa Rosa.

During the event, high school students will team up with local chefs for a tasty appetizers competition featuring local ingredients. After the appetizers, Vintners Inn Executive Chef Thomas Schmidt will serve dinner.

The event, hosted by food and restaurant consultant Clark Wolf, also includes a live and silent auction.

Tickets are $80; advance purchase is required. To reserve, go to chefsoftomorrow.org. For more information, call 523-3728.

Vintners Inn is at 4350 Barnes Road.

Full article here

From the Russian Tea Room, with love

Ellen Kaye has many memories of the Russian Tea Room, the storied restaurant her family owned from 1947 to 1996.

 

As a tyke, she helped the staff fill salt and pepper shakers and count the money behind the bar while she popped maraschino cherries into her mouth. She got to meet many stars, including Sidney Poitier, a regular customer in the 1960s and her first crush. By age 10, she was in the kitchen helping the chef make chicken Kiev.

“I had the most amazing birthday parties at the restaurant,” recalled Ms. Kaye, 51. “It was our home.”

Moscow 57 to evoke memories

Ms. Kaye has worked for many other eateries over the years but is now close to opening her own place, inspired by her childhood. Moscow 57, a contemporary version of the Russian Tea Room and a play on its address on West 57th Street, could open as soon as September, according to investors in the project.

After three years of planning, Ms. Kaye and her business partner, Seth Goldman, are negotiating a lease for a theater district space where they hope to put a 125-seat restaurant. They have lined up investors and written a 94-page business plan, and are currently vetting chefs. Ms. Kaye has even begun wearing a gold necklace with the Moscow 57 name, as if to ensure its arrival.

“Ellen was born with the kind of backstory that other restaurateurs would kill for,” said consultant Clark Wolf, who is helping with Moscow 57's opening.

Full article here

The Food Show with Clark Wolf, Episode Five