Clark Wolf's Rants, Raves, Diatribes...and a few other Thoughts

Fowl play: Chicken chain to descend on NY

Pudgie's Famous Chicken targets metro area for 20 stores in the next year and as many as 50 over the next five years; healthier options, including the signature skinless fried chicken, pepper the menu.

An entire flock of fried chicken shops is headed for the metro area. Pudgie's Famous Chicken, a brand founded two decades ago in Bethpage, L.I., was re-launched last year under new ownership and is now expanding into the five boroughs big time.

The eatery, now under parent company Trufoods, currently has commitments in place for 20 new franchises scattered throughout Brooklyn and Queens, as well as on Long Island, in the next year. First up, an outpost in Bay Ride, Brooklyn, which is slated to open in late May or early June, according to Gary Occhiogrosso, chief development officer of 4-year-old Trufoods, which is based in Manhattan.

Two more Pudgie's are slated to open in Bay Ridge late this year or early next. Outposts in Elmhurst and Woodside, in Queens, each around 1,000 square feet in size, will launch this summer. The Brooklyn locations will be much larger at 2,400 square feet and are designed to seat up to 30 patrons. All of the new locations will have either a Nathan's Hot Dogs or Arthur Treacher's Fish & Chips as well.

Mr. Occhiogrosso said he also is in negotiations with a potential franchisee who is interested in opening a Pudgie's in Manhattan. Each new franchise costs between $165,000 and $260,000 to open, he said.

To re-introduce the brand to New Yorkers, Trufoods has made some adjustments. Pudgie's, despite its weighty name, only offers skinless fried chicken, which is slightly lower in fat and cholesterol. For the chain's return to the metro area, its owners are adding more healthful menu options.

“Folks all over the New York metropolitan area remember Pudgie's fondly,” said Mr. Occhiogrosso, who is something of a chicken expert, having launched chicken chain Ranch 1 in the 1990s. “We're now modernizing the menu and addressing consumer needs and trends today in 2011 that didn't exist in 1991.” He noted the offerings will now include vegetables such as spinach and salad, as well as grilled—as opposed to fried—chicken options.

One restaurant expert said Pudgie's growth plans are a wise move.

“Fried chicken is back on the front burner of American food,” said Clark Wolf, a restaurant consultant, noting that the outer boroughs are a good place to test the market. “Everyone from Thomas Keller and Marcus Samuelson to KFC is re-visiting the classic fired chicken recipe these days.”

Long term, Trufoods, which also operates fast-food brands Ritter's Frozen Custard and Wall Street Deli, expects to have some 50 Pudgie's in the New York area within the next five years. Ritter's and Wall Street Deli are also in expansion mode here.

Full article here

Commonwealth Club Interview with Thomas Keller

I'll admit that I've long fantasized about doing one of those wonderful Commonwealth Club interviews I love listening to on NPR. Then one day last year I got a lovely call inviting me to do just that. Thomas Keller had suggested I be invited to interview him about his new book - and all of his writings - in front of a sold out crowd in a local school auditorium.

It was a pleasure to do. I hope you and everyone there get half as much pleasure as I did doing it. 

Full audio file here

Artisan Infidels Retreat: Olive Garden pulls fishy pasta promo

 

A few thoughtful eyebrows shot skyward recently when television channel surfing landed me on a truly upsetting (to me) promotion for Olive Garden’s new (new, NEW) “Artisan Ravioli.” An oxymoron if there ever was one.

They pulled the promo and won’t respond to questions about it, and even the PR company “declined the opportunity” to answer the simplest and most softball questions. The entire promo — and all discussion, or responses to questions about it — have suddenly gone missing. Poof!

Yeah, well, it’s a little like when I jokingly called French fries so good they must be line caught and grass fed.

It’s fine to revel in the latest resonant word or phrase, but maybe this time the ‘ol wind up struck out — or at least struck the wrong nerve.

Haven’t we as a country evolved in our food — and particularly Italian food — knowledge enough to know when a little romanticizing has finally gone too far?

The abuse of the recently embraced and lovely term “artisan” follows what can only be called the pummeling of the term “heirloom.” Organic farm raised salmon also comes to mind.

At least with the term “sustainable” there’s an active conversation about what this might mean. But with “artisan,” even Olive Garden thought they could pull a fast on a Slow Food. But maybe not.

In a world where Conservatives can be against conservation and Progressives look for old fashioned civility can we really expect more?

I’m just glad we realize that the word “fresh” can never be previously frozen.

Full article here

Distressing News

There was a fire in the ceiling of the old building on Guerneville Road that houses the beloved restaurant Zazu. No word yet about fixing - cause if the whole place needs to be redone they won't be able to be there when it's finished. 

So in the meantime, to help support them and, frankly help and please yourself, go at once and often to their wonderful cafe, bovolo,  at the back of Copperfield's bookstore on the square in Healdsburg.

I particularly love the sausage burger and the black pig bacon (their own) and egg sandwich - ok, and the gelato - but everything they make is stellar. Have a salad. It reminds you what a joyous and delicious meal foods built on greens can be.

 

UPDATE (3/31/2011)

Nice people, good people and crafts people seem to stick together.  The ceiling at the dear and wonderful roadhouse restaurant on the edge of Santa Rosa farmland is rewired and patched and the Saturday night fire is just a smokin memory.  Thanks to quick thinking (and complementary prosecco) and hard work the favored local spot is now reopened and rockin. 

Yet another reason to fall in love with their sweet staff and some great fire department stalwarts.  Local heroes make for quick and safe recovery.  They have a Farmers Plate and a Butchers Plate on the menu.  Maybe they need a Fire Brigade Special.   

Early Summer Farm Forum - June 2nd

 

Dear Friends,

Spring goes to summer and before we know it we’re knee deep in sunshine. These are precious days and complex times, as we head towards the Farm Bill update in ’12, the many activities our County leaders are spearheading and yet another amazing season of significant bounty.  So, it does us good to pause, share stories, reach out to neighbors and friends and do all we can to ensure our efforts end in delicious rewards for all.

This year some of us are giving some special focus to making sure we mix modern technology with ancient – or more recent – historical wisdom. We’re spending a random year celebrating, among other things, the gifts of Luther Burbank. And there are many.

To that we’ll add updates and info, share successes and issue a few thoughtful pronouncements.  And then we’ll nibble and sip.

All the proceeds from the modest admissions fee ($15 at the door) will go to fund more Luther Burbank School Orchards and support some splendid Santa Rosa Junior College Culinary Program efforts.

Hosted by barndiva, Thursday, June 2nd from 5pm to 7pm In the Sonoma Yard of barndiva, 231 Center St, Healdsburg, CA

Confirmed Panel To Date:

Barbara Abbott
Luther Burbank
Home and Garden

Nathan Boone
First Light Farm CSA
Luther Burbank School
Orchard Consultant

Mary Clemens
Sonoma County Parks Department

Dan Imhoff
Publisher, Watershed Media

Christa Luedtke
boon eat + drink

Janus Holt Matthes
Community Alliance
with Family Farmers

Mo McElroy
President/CEO, Healdsburg Chamber
of Commerce & Visitors Bureau

Michael Salinger
Culinary Arts Program Chair
Santa Rosa Junior College

Amy Wingfield
Sonoma County Permit & Resource
Management Department

 

Hope to se you there!
Marcy Smothers and Clark Wolf

 

This event is co-sponsored by the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau
Seating is somewhat limited.
RSVP to tosca@clarkwolfcompany.com
Cash or Check only at the door

Food...the Most Important Thing in the World

Sonoma County Lodging Association
Wine County Chefs of Tomorrow 
present

Food...the Most Important Thing in the World
A Benefit for Sonoma County High School Culinary Arts Programs

Thursday, April 7, 2011
5:30 PM ~ Vintners Inn Event Center

Featuring Clark Wolf of Clark Wolf Food, Restaurant and Hospitality Consulting and television food program host. 

A culinary adventure awaits you...

Start your evening off by "measuring" the appetizers prepared by the students. Each high school is paired with an executive chef from a local lodging facility. Together they will conceive, source, prepare and serve delectable appetizers during the pre-meal reception.

Vintners Inn Executive Chef Thomas Schmidt will put his “spoonful" of knowledge to work and present you with a savory dinner.

Silent and Live Auction

Bid on great auction lots including trips, wine and excursions.

Over 100 items will be on display for bidding in the Silent Auction with a special selection included in the Live Auction during the evening program. Be a part of our recipe for success and take advantage of the great values that will be offered in the Silent and Live Auctions.

For more information contact us at:  

info@ChefsOfTomorrow.org or 707.523.3728

I Want It My Way! What’s the right give and take for restaurants?

A journalist asked if I had any classic examples of restaurants that were intensely particular about how and with what they served certain foods – like the bagel place that refuses to toast, the spot selling fries that doesn’t allow ketchup or the so-called gastropub that serves a burger with blue cheese, no matter what.

The snappy story ended up on the front page of the New York Times on Saturday indicating just how top of mind this occasional but regular cultural struggle can feel.

The chestnut I proffered was of San Francisco’s very own Poodle Dog – a hot spot and society watering hole for something like a century. It got a complete, loving and expensive ($3.5 million, I seem to recall) facelift, only to go down quickly in flames, metaphorically and financially, which was in some large part attributed to the chef’s absolute refusal to put or allow salt and pepper anywhere in or near the dining room. He promised, through well trained staff and slightly beleaguered PR folks, that he’d achieved perfect seasoning in the kitchen. Many of us tipped our hats to his brilliance and proceeded to eat elsewhere.

But in these gently recovering still tough times, it’s not always easy to decide where to draw the line. Some tension or exclusivity can create and maintain the sort of dynamic that restaurants need to pull and sustain a crowd.  New Yorkers do love to try to get what it appears they can’t have, and – as I’ve always said – if you give customers everything they want, they’ll take your car, your dog and maybe your boyfriend.

But what’s the right give –and withhold?  Swan Oyster Depot keeps tight and tingly by having just 11 seats, Zuni Café makes you wait 48 minutes to get a whole roasted chicken, Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar in Santa Rosa bids you farewell by not serving any desserts at all. These all seems to work perfectly well for them.

I once helped alter a client mix at a beautiful spot on Lake Tahoe by simply removing the Budweiser and starting the beer choices at about $5.  It worked perfectly. The average check jumped and business boomed.

So how does a smart restaurateur make these critical choices?  Everyone loves a little rebellion, a little cheeky – especially if their target market is the slightly rock ‘n roll edgy of passionate foodists (many on tight budgets) that are at the forefront of a lot of restaurant development today. For example, I really do love that sign on the window of New York’s Zucco:  “Le French Diner – No Bud, no ketchup, no reservations, no Zagat” (!!).  But it’s not for nothing that they call this the hospitality business.  Remember, the number one reason people go to restaurants is to feel better.

So make us frown, then smile, then firmly seduce us into happy submission. And make sure not to give us indigestion.

Full article here

The Food Show with Clark Wolf, Episode 4

 

  

2011 Wine Country Hospitality Symposium

           

The Napa Valley College Wine Country Hospitality Symposium is a must-attend event! This year's event is focused on the latest industry trends surrounding Sustainability in its many applications.             
                                                                                                     
From pasture-to-table food preparation, to long-term employee engagement and successful community-based business operations the Symposium consists of a full day of speakers and seminars discussing topics that are facing the Northern California hospitality industry.  Following a "highly talked-about and now-famous", sustainable lunch catered by Silverado Brewing Co. in our Culinary Arts Building, a wine tasting, product exploration and trade show in the relaxing and beautiful "Culinary Quad" will offer networking opportunities to catalyze the success of your hospitality business.

Register On-line Now        

EXTENDED $99 Fee Until March 11th!         

Click Here to See Our Current Schedule of Events


 

BBC The World Tonight Interview

 
I was quoted in a front page New York Times piece the other day about the move towards denying special requests in restaurants.  It's the chef's way or nothing.  You can read the article here.

The BBC picked up on the story and tracked me down at my cabin in the woods in Sonoma for an interview.

Tease at :45 and nice four minute segment at the 25 minute mark.

BBC audio player here